With a traditional pinbox the yaw moment transmitted to the hitch is nominally zero (i.e., it turns freely). The reason is that the sidewinder transmits a huge moment to the hitch on the yaw (turning) axis via the key that immobilizes the front part of the sidewinder. Any hitch that has a composite hitch head (such as the Blue Ox Super Ride) will not work with a sidewinder. Highly recommend them.Д¬lick to expand.Not all fifth wheel hitches are compatible with sidewinder pin boxes. The hitch comes apart in two pieces and can easily be removed or installed by one person. Well made, sturdy and there is never any sort of hitch 'rattle' when coupled. I have used the B&W companion for a number of years and it is a good hitch. While gooseneck adapters are much more convenient, I would never use a gooseneck on my camper.ДЄs an aside, I would never purchase a used 5vr that had been towed using any sort of gooseneck/adapter due to concern with frame damage. There are many stories in the various RV forums of 5vr frame failures associated with goosenecks/adapters that result in very expensive repairs. I would strongly recommend to contact Lippert to see if your setup would void the warranty or not.ДЄs already pointed out, the stresses of a gooseneck/adapter are far greater in the bending and twisting moment exerted on the camper frame that a standard 5th wheel hitch. I would hate like hell to break the frame on a new camper, only to have Lippert say, too bad, you used a gooseneck/adapter. Just note that Lippert makes damn near all of the frames for 5vrs regardless of brand.

There are very few gooseneck/couplers that will NOT void the Lippert frame warranty. So for flatbed guys that want to changes hitches routinely like I do, I don't know of a better setup. I don't think either half weighs 75 pounds. Just pop the hitch head off then loosen one bolt, pull the pin and pick the base right up out of the socket. The one for the flatbed is much smaller and easily handled. As I get older I'm sure it would end up on the list of things that I don't do anymore. So I can wrestle it around but it's a chore and probably not very smart. I'm not that big but have always had a tough time saying I can't. The standard Companion is a handful for one guy. I've used their hitches on both a standard pickup box and a flatbed. It's old and way out of warranty so I just keep using it So for flatbed guys that want to change hitches routinely like I do, I don't know of a better setup.ДЇor guys with a dedicated tow rig, there are definitely lots of hitch options, some of which get pretty heavy but if you can just leave it in the truck, then so be it.ДЄll that said, my personal 5er has a gooseneck hitch. First, they're built 45 minutes from me, second, a good friend of mine is a dealer, third, they build high quality equipment and stand behind it. Nobody wants to buy a big nice new camper and immediately void the structural warranty.ДЄs for the B&W hitch, I'm a pretty big fan. I don't have the specifics on that but I've seen it mentioned enough times that I'm sure there's something to it. Someone else mentioned trailer frame warranty. So the farther you move the hitch attachment point down from the trailer frame, the move leverage the hitch has to twist the trailer frame. If you think about it like a cheater pipe on a wrench or chain boomer, the longer your pipe, the move leverage you have. The farther you move the attachment point to the truck hitch down, the more stress you put on the trailer frame. The short answer to your question is that the gooseneck hitch changes the stresses that the hitch exerts on the trailer frame.

Reese 20k goosnsck pinbox